MARILYN’S INDIA . . . and SOOKHE Potatoes

After their trip to India in 2006, Cousin Marilyn sent me a Christmas ‘letter’ full of pictures and comments.  I looked for it today, but no luck.  Dang down-sizing! 

Fortunately, however, Marilyn re-posted a bunch of pictures from that trip and I’m taking the liberty of surprising Marilyn and sharing a few of them.   Family History :)

                                            Humayun's Tomb

JAMA MASJID

*****

Lindsay Bareham’s cookbook, IN PRAISE OF THE POTATO, contains a recipe for Indian Potatoes called Sookhe Aloo.  She translates the name as “Dry Potatoes”.    

   

Sookhe in Ukrainian also means dry!     ! ! ! ! ! ! 

This is the second time I have found a Ukrainian word in India.  There is a city in India called NASIK  because of a mythological story involving the cutting of a nose!

Well, then.  No wonder I’ve always been drawn to India.

*****

SOOKHE ALOO:  Serves 4

Make these early in the day because they take 15 long minutes of stirring . . . but they can be reheated and they’re worth it!

1 ¾ lbs potatoes (800 g)

3 tbsp water

Fresh ginger root (about 2 inches)

3 cloves garlic

½ tsp turmeric

½ tsp cayenne

3 tbsp butter

2 tbsp veg oil

1 tsp fennel seeds

¾ tsp salt

·        Peel and boil potatoes until tender in salted water (about 1 tsp salt).

·        Drain potatoes and let them cool.  Then dice and set aside.

·        Put 3 tbsp water into a small bowl.

·        Peel and grate ginger root coarsely.  Add to the water.

·        Use a garlic press to mash garlic.  Add to the water.

·        Stir turmeric and cayenne into the bowl of water.

·        Heat butter and oil in a large non-stick frying pan. 

·        Add fennel seeds and let them sizzle a few seconds over medium low heat.

·        Add the water and spices.  Stir for a couple of minutes.

·        Stir in the potatoes. 

·        Turn the heat up to high and stir for 15 minutes until potatoes are browned.  Lindsay says keep them moving so they get evenly crisped.  (Mine actually became clumps of mash plus small cubes of potatoes BUT, never mind, they were good!)

·        Take off heat and let them sit until you’re ready to serve.  Then reheat quickly over high heat.

A TASTE OF INDIA . . . and SEEKH KABABS

On our last day in India, we tried to pick out the highlights of this trip.  It wasn’t easy because every day was amazing.

  Flashback to the days of the Raj -- Bryan and Maureen, his sister, in the Maidens Oberoi Hotel . . .

Independent night walk through Chandni Chowk Market in Old Delhi,

and dinner at Karim’s

with our taxi driver.

The Rickshaw Ride through Chandni Chowk Market in Old Delhi was a hit with Bryan and Maureen.

The Taj

Maureen also liked the elephant Ride up to Amber Fort, Jaipur. 

  Ranthambore was on Bryan’s list even though we never spotted a tiger, but   we saw a mongoose and five kinds of deer . . . and got drenched and chilled by a furious lightning and thunder storm.

As we left Ranthambore in our bus, an enchantingly beautiful girl in a pink sari smiled and waved at us.

I liked seeing all the happy, independent pariah dogs in India .  In the 1970s, I was warned not to go walking about alone because I might be attacked by “one of those wild dogs that are everywhere” and I eyed every dog for possible signs of rabies.  On this trip, the dogs went their merry way and I went mine . . . my only regret was leaving behind 3 delightful black and white puppies who were so eager to be friends. 

Maureen only wished for a quiet moment away from the hawkers during the Ganges Boat Ride at dawn in Varanasi.

In the evening, a nine-year-old girl with a basket of candles embedded in flowers  followed me down the steps of the ghat to our boat insisting I buy a candle.  “No,” I said.

“Yes,” she retorted, smiling.

“No, no, no,” I laughed.

“Yes, yes, yes,” she laughed back.

So cute.  I handed her a ten rupee bill.

“Now buy candle,” she grinned.

“No, no, no,” I said, stepping into the boat.

“Yes, yes, yes.”  Then she smiled and waved happily, “Bye, bye.”

The boat pulled away and Bryan and I were sorry I didn’t buy a candle. . .

until Bryan read that the tin foil cups holding the candles are piling up at the bottom of the Ganges.

Ah India . . . poetry and problems.

*******

In 1974, I went to work in a Winnipeg library and that’s where I found two of the treasures in my life:

Bryan

and A Taste of India by Mary S. Atwood.

One of the first recipes I selected from Atwood’s cookbook was for Seekh Kababs.    My first experience of this spicy appetizer came in 1972 while sitting on a maharajah's carpeted floor.  They came on sticks and I loved them.

Since Atwood’s Seekh Kababs come as meatballs, they are very easy to make and really, really good!

1 pound ground lamb or beef

1 small onion, grated

2 cloves garlic, crushed

2 tsp ground coriander

¼ tsp cumin

1/8 tsp ground cloves

1/8 tsp ground cardamom

1/8 tsp dry mustard

1 tsp salt

1 egg, beaten

Lime wedges

·        Combine all ingredients, except lime.  Mix well.

·        Preheat oven to 350.

·        Shape into 1 and ½ inch meatballs and place on broiler pan.

·        Cook for 30 minutes and serve hot with lime wedges.

BREAKFASTS in INDIA. . . and Indian-style BROCCOLI BITES

All our fancy Indian hotels offered huge buffets for breakfast.

Five years ago, I didn’t like the South Indian rice dumplings called idlis.  They come with a sauce called sambhar.   I guess, for me, it’s an acquired taste because I just took one this time as a kind of fond salute to our last trip . . . and I really liked it!

Every one of the buffets had a short-order station where you could order an omelet, eggs the way you like them, or a dosa.

I defy anyone not to enjoy the thin South Indian crepe called dosa.  It comes stuffed with spicy potatoes, but if you ask they will put an omelet inside and voilà – a regular breakfast wrap!

At our last hotel, I reached for a ready-made poori, but the old chef looked horrified.  He waved a finger at me and made me two fresh puffy pooris.  Then, I lifted a covered lid and found my absolute favorite Indian dessert -- hot, syrupy jelebis!

In short, the breakfast buffets in India are OUTSTANDING!

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Pakoras are an Indian appetizer I love which also appeared at one breakfast buffet.   I've made the following recipe more than once because it reminds me of a pakora (also called  pakoda in some parts of India).

APPETIZER:  BROCCOLI  TIDBITS

            From THE VICTORY GARDEN COOKBOOK

2 cups blanched broccoli chopped into ¼ inch pieces

1 ½ cups fresh bread crumbs

½ cup freshly grated cheese (cheddar, Swiss, etc.)

½ tsp salt

¼ tsp pepper

1 tsp finely minced garlic

1/3 cup vegetable oil

·        Beat eggs and combine with all the other ingredients except oil.

·        Form into 1 ½ inch balls.

·        Heat oil and cook broccoli until browned on all sides: about 5 minutes.

·        Serve hot.  Irresistible!

A Country of Contrasts . . . and INDIAN PEAS in Tomato Sauce

Indian Summers  . . . “can’t get into it,” commented a fellow traveller. 

The Jewel in the Crown . . . “too violent” rejected the same tourist.

 “Well, it certainly wasn’t boring,” I returned . . .  meaning I loved it.

Sipping wine in the shady but warm garden of the Oberoi Maidens Hotel, I almost felt as though I could, if I turned quickly, catch a glimpse of Baker and Lutyens chugging gin and tonics while arguing over the placement of Rashtrapati Bhavan.  (Might explain why they got it wrong!)

So far, however, the highlight of our trip  has been our night visit to   a restaurant right in the middle of the Chandi Chowk market in Old Delhi. 

Our driver was a 34 year old Hindu who apologized for his poor English.  He told us he has eleven year old twins back in his village with his wife, his mom and dad, and his brothers and sisters because renting a room is too expensive in Delhi, he said.  “Four or five thousand rupees a month." (That’s  one thousand dollars Canadian.)  Both children are going to school and learning to speak good English. 

He talked a bit about Indian weddings.  “A man like me,” he said, “spends 4 or 5 lakh on a wedding.” That’s 400,000 to 500,000 rupees  (ten thousand Canadian dollars).

A rich man in India spends 40 to 50 lakhs on a wedding . . . or more!

The driver had to park the car a ways off and paid some guy to keep an eye on his car.  Then he led us down a BUSY narrow street, wending our way around motorcycle cabs, rickshaws, and PEOPLE, none of them white.  I think the only light came from the shops on one side . . . the crispy brown chicken street food looked sooo tempting, but I was glad we were going to end up in some kind of a restaurant. 

Karim’s is a Muslim restaurant which is highly recommended by Lonely Planet for both the food and the experience.  Good job, Lonely Planet!   

Instead of having the driver wait for us somewhere, Nestor asked him to join us for dinner. 

On the way home from supper the driver was so grateful.  He told Nestor, "I am so happy I got to eat chicken with gravy."  (He ordered the butter chicken.) 

India is, of course, a country of side by side marble and mud . . . showy streamers and scabby squalor.

So yesterday we visited an immaculate and opulent Temple.   This religion dates back to . . . 1968 :).  Everybody was looking for something and the wealthy Gujerat found this swami.  Now, saffron-robed monks ring bells and chant in front of a huge golden statue of him . . .  and that immense stone adorning the forehead is, I am assured, a genuine ruby. 

Security is very strict and no cameras are allowed.  Well, never mind, my camera’s kaput anyhow. 

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MATAR KHORMA  (Peas in Tomato Sauce)

            From  Premila Lal’s INDIAN COOKING FOR PLEASURE

1 lb tomatoes

1 lb frozen peas

½ inch fresh ginger root

1 green chili  (jalapeno)

1 tsp oil

½ tsp garam masala

½ tsp salt

·        Boil some water in a saucepan.  Dip in a tomato and roll about in the boiling water for about 30 seconds.  Set aside and blanch the other tomatoes.   

·        Peel the tomatoes and blend them in a food processor.

·        Boil the peas for 3 minutes and drain. Set aside.

·        Discard the seeds of the green chili and finely chop it.

·        Peel and finely chop the ginger root.   

·        Heat the oil over low heat.  Add the garam masala and chili.  Stir for one minute.

·        Add the tomatoes and peas.  Remove from heat and let stand until 15 minutes before serving time.

·        Cook for 15 minutes over low heat.

Delhi on Tour

Our Welcome/Farewell dinner provided by the Kempinski Ambience Hotel was a multi-course feast!  After dessert, large boxes were placed on the table and we could select from an array of seeds and other palate 'cleansers?'.  I thought I was choosing a large nut but it was maybe tamarind . . . I should have asked afterwards, but I was too taken by surprise.  I ate half and popped the rest into Bryan's mouth . . . ha, ha.

I asked some of my fellow travellers what they enjoyed most during the day:

a.   Some enjoyed the rickshaw ride through the Chandi Chowk market. (I would have preferred getting down at some point and shopping.)

b.   Threading our way side by side with cars and motorcycle-cabs and rickshaws was a thrill for others.  (I felt really confident after our excursion during the night just previous.)

As for myself, I was struck by the immensity of the Jama Masjid mosque and the coolness of the interior; a nice relief from the sun.   I also enjoyed the lacy stone screens at Humayun’s Tomb – can never see them too often. 

Most Irksome:

A huge cloud of mosquito spray descended upon us while we were touring Humayun’s Tomb.   Couldn’t that have been done AFTER the tourists left?

And a Warning . . .

A luxury tour is expensive . . . A single glass of “house” wine appeared on the menu for 1300 rupees.  Add tax to that and the glass of wine cost about $30.00. 

                              I decided I wanted a beer instead.   

October 24, 1973 and DUCK ZAHNY

On the farm, most of the ducks we ate were wild.  We helped pluck them  -- I was fascinated by their green heads and the blue feathers on the wings but I hated the lice running  up my arm and would run to the woodstove to drop the nasty things in.  Once cleaned, Mom soaked the ducks,  stuffed them, and roasted them slowly 2 at a time until they were a rich dark brown & the meat would be falling off the bone.

Oct 24/73? Mom wrote:  

I was to Karens helping to kill the rest of her chickens we done Friday 39 chickens.  and killed our ducks last Monday will have to do the chickens soon but its so cold so don’t feel like. 

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STEWED DUCK  (Kachka Varena)  

        Based on Bohdan Zahny’s recipe in THE BEST of UKRAINIAN CUISINE

1 duck

2 tbsp vegetable oil

2 tbsp flour

3 cups vegetable stock or water

2 carrots

2 onions

1 garlic clove

¼ cup chopped parsley

1 bay leaf

Salt  

¼ tsp pepper

1 cup sour cream

·        Slice carrots thinly and set aside.

·        Chop onions and add to carrots.

·        Mince garlic and add to carrots and onions.

·        Chop parsley and add to the carrots, etc.

·        Cut up duck.  Reserve breast to sauté separately.  (Or include it in the stew, as Bohdan does.)

·        Salt the duck pieces.

·        Heat the oil in a large frying pan.  Fry the duck for 20 minutes on each side until golden.  Remove from pan.

·        Pour off most of the fat.  (Reserve fat for frying duck breast and potatoes.)

·        Return duck to frypan and sprinkle with flour.  Fry for 10 more minutes.  This will make a lovely rich brown gravy.

·        Bring water or stock to a boil in Dutch oven.  Take out about a cup of stock.

·        Remove duck and put in Dutch oven. 

·        Pour stock onto frying pan and scrape up all the browning.  Add this back into the Dutch oven.

·        Add all the reserved vegetables to the Dutch oven and the bayleaf, salt, and pepper.  (about ½ tsp salt)  Stew 30 minutes.

·         Stir in sour cream and taste again for salt.

o   You can let this cool and then reheat in the oven for 30 minutes at 350 before serving to company.

·        Make life easy for yourself by also sautéing the duck breasts before your company arrives:

o   In 2 tbsp hot duck fat, sear breasts that have been sprinkled with seasoned salt.  Lower the heat a bit and cook skin side down for 5 minutes.  Flip to other side for 5 minutes.  Then back to skin side for 3 more minutes. 

o   Cut into the thickest part of the breasts to see if they are cooked to your liking.  I like them medium rare; not raw-looking.

o   Reheat before serving and slice thinly so everyone can enjoy some.  J  Serve separately from the rest of the duck.

o   Bohdan suggests serving this duck with fried potatoes.

We've had this duck twice now -- my brother even served it at Thanksgiving this year!