Saturday 5 December 2020

ZAKOPANE, Poland . . . and the GRAND HOTEL STAMARY

Thursday September 13, a few years ago

After an early breakfast we checked out of the Hotel Amadeus and took taxis to the bus station for the 110 km ride to Zakopane, a resort town located at the foot of the Tatra Mountains.  The day was sunny and fresh.  The bus was a more modern version of a tour bus.

 We arrived at the Zakopane bus/train station 2.25 hours later and walked for about 10-15 minutes to the Grand Hotel Stamary which was grand indeed.




We took a 10-minute walk to the town centre. The long, rising main thoroughfare, Krupkowi Street, was full of tourists and hikers. We casually meandered about and stayed for an outdoor lunch. 



Afterwards, we walked over to the old wooden church dedicated to Our Lady of Czestochowa 

and to the adjacent Peksow Brzyzka cemetery (so named from Jan Peksa who offered the land on a high cliff (cliff = brzyzek in highlander’s dialect). The cemetery dates back to the mid-19th century.  A small fee was collected for upkeep of the cemetery which has wooden tombs of famous Polish writers, artists, poets as well as mountain guides and rescuers.   








 For supper, we enjoyed a Polish style BBQ at one of the outdoor restaurants along the main street.


Friday September 14



After breakfast in the hotel, Nestor and Bryan walked back to the bus/train station to confirm our return to Krakow. Then, we walked back into the town centre where we took the Gubalowka Hill Funicular to the top which overlooks the town below and provides a great view of the Tatra Mountains. There is a long street running along the top lined with tourist shops, ice cream kiosks and BBQs. On one side is the valley and on the other side rolling farm land. There is a large sandy “beach” for sunbathers in the summer and a popular gravitational slide both of which they decided to forgo.  It took about 30 minutes to walk down a rough path back to town. Near the end was an unexpected kiosk where each hiker had to pay 3 zlotys for the privilege of stumbling down the steep slope.


We stopped for a light lunch of herring and dumplings and beer just as the rain began falling in torrents.  By the time we finished lunch, the rain had stopped and we took advantage of the lull to walk back to the Grand Hotel. 


We joined Eleanor for mulled wine under a sheltered patio while the rain resumed. The evening meal at the hotel was very pleasant. We were surprised at how few tables were occupied given the fine cooking and service.



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The food in Poland is SO GOOD that, of course, I have been trying out some recipes.

                                      Kotlety Schabowe z Serom : page 104 in

I thought the cheese slice on top of the pork cutlet would melt away when I browned that side, but it
didn't :).  

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After a grand hotel you can stay, if you wish, in a real Polish castle, not too far from Krakow.  It’s not even very expensive so, if we had planned a longer holiday, I certainly would have put £ancut on our itinerary.

In 1678,  the Compendium Ferculorum was Stanislaw Czerniecki's cookbook.  He was the master chef at the castle in Lancut, Poland,