UkrainiYum!
Wednesday 2 October 2024
MARY STADNYK: AUG 11 HAILED OUT . . . and RASPBERRY PIE
Monday 1 April 2024
More of Bryan's Journal in POLAND . . . and reflecting on history
October, 2023
BRYAN'S JOURNAL: Saturday September 15: a few years ago
It was “mizzling” as we walked to the station. We chose to take the 9:13 am train to Krakow. We always were impressed at how buses, trains and even taxis departed on time and arrived on time. The trip went smoothly; however, we had to transfer to a bus part way because the track was closed for repairs. We arrived in Krakow about 2:00 pm and were able to find a taxi-van to take all of us to our Airbnb accommodations. (We had not been able to find hotel rooms in the old town area as they were all booked for some reason.) Our apartment, located on the 6th floor of a building just off the Rynek Glowny (main square), the largest medieval market square in Europe. Our accommodation had two large bedrooms with a kitchen and a single bathroom using the same unusual gas heating system.
After a light lunch the ladies went to the Historical Museum of Krakow located underground at the Rynek while Nestor and Bryan went for a walk.
We stopped at a small ice-cream shop and bought cones of marron-glassé, which was reputed to be Pope Jean Paul II’s favourite.
Nestor and a reluctant Bryan went to the Museum of the Hangman of Krakow which displayed various instruments of torture. The real surprise was the enthusiastic commentary (in English) by a young woman who sold tickets and provided “tours” of the small space downstairs. They stopped for a drink at a small out-of-the –way vodka bar that served different kinds of herring .
When we were back at our apartment, we heard this commotion in the square. When we looked out of a window we saw a long procession of nuns in their various colours and forms of religious dress marching through the square enthusiastically singing while flags and banners waved at the head of the march. At one point, they performed a “human wave”.
In the evening (ca 7 pm) we walked to Kuchnia U Babci Maliny, a restaurant that served traditional Polish fare located in the basement of the Polish Academy of Arts and Sciences. People ordered their food at the counter and sat at tables with benches. The décor included a lot of photos of boxers and mixed martial arts fighters.
That evening while Nestor and Bryan walked around the Rynek, Nestor was propositioned by a charming young “woman of the night” while Bryan was watching an outstanding guitarist perform who was one of several superb musicians that performed in the square throughout the day.)
NB: There is indeed a “trumpeter of Krakow”. Firefighters volunteer to play the “hejnal” (pronounced hey-now) every hour every day from the east, west, south and north sides of the left tower of St Mary’s Basilica. The trumpeter only plays the first few notes and abruptly stops. Apparently, these were the notes played by a trumpeter before he was killed in 1241 trying to warn the citizens of an attack by the Tartars (or so the unverified tradition goes).
Sunday September 16
We had an early breakfast at Costa Coffee in preparation for our 9:00 am pick-up. Our Airbnb rentor had arranged for a van to take us to the Wieliczka Salt Mine. A miscommunication delayed our pick-up until 9:45 am. While waiting Eleanor arranged for transportation to the Krakow airport on Tuesday. When the van did arrive it also had two British tourists. With five more passengers, we had a very packed van.
The mine, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was opened in the 13th century and produced table salt continuously until 2007. Now it is a very popular tourist venue. The underground tour is about 2 km long. We began with a descent of about 58 flights of stairs. Along the guided walk we passed through large caverns. There are many statues carved by miners as well as contemporary artists. There also are chapels carved out of grey rock salt by miners as well as a concert hall with excellent acoustics which hosts weddings and musical performances.
Our guide was knowledgeable and possessed a dry and slightly irreverent sense of humour.
We returned in the early afternoon and enjoyed a light lunch of perogies (3 kinds), lamb and Polish rosé.
After lunch Nestor and Bryan walked south along the Royal Road past a series of churches until they found themselves at Wawel Castle. On the way back they stopped for an ice-cream cone at one of the many such shops.
Tuesday September 17
We woke up to another sunny day and walked again to the Europejska for breakfast. Then we all walked down to Wawel Castle. Along the way we visited the Franciscan Church of St Francis of Assisi which has an impressive stain glass window by Stanislaw Wyspianski as well as a certified copy of the Shroud of Turin. We also passed by the grand statuary in front of the Church of Saints Peter and Paul. We wandered the grounds of the Royal Castle on Wawel Hill and visited the Royal Cathedral of St. Stanislaus and St. Wenceslaus which has the Sigismund Chapel. The cathedral, which was the traditional coronation site of Polish monarchs, is closely associated with the religious life of Karol Wojtyla who became Pope Jean Paul II.
Later Nestor and Bryan walked across the river to see Oscar Schindler’s enamel factory which was not easy to find. It was a good thing that we stopped for a pleasant lunch. When they did locate it (thank heavens it was next to the hard-not-to-notice MOCAK, the gallery of contemporary art). They could not enter because there were no tickets available! On the way back they visited the Galicia Jewish Museum in the Kazimierz. This museum, established in 2004, is a photo exhibition commemorating the 800-year Jewish culture and life in western Galicia (southeastern Poland). Their trek so far had made them a tad peckish, so they stopped for Polish tapas: vodka shot with sardine paté and later, a donut and coffee.
That evening everyone took in an excellent meal at Wesele. While the others waited for dinner to arrive, Bryan and went for a short stroll and was fortunate to get inside St. Mary’s Basilica. And viewed its wooden Gothic altarpiece carved in the late 15th century by Veit Stoss.
Wednesday September 18
At 7:00 am we were picked up and take to the airport. Our talkative driver was knowledgeable and open about the political situation in his country.
A little after 9:00 am we left Krakow for Munich in an Airbus 319 and around 3:00 pm from Munich to Vancouver on an Airbus 350. The trip home was long but smoother than our flight to Poland.
******************************************
Mary Stadnyk's letter on March 29, 1985 . . . and Lamb chops with Eggplant
Lamb Chops with Eggplant
from Cordon Bleu Cookery Course: #55
2 lamb chops
2 tbsp oil
1 oz butter
1 large onion
1 medium eggplant
Salt
¼ tsp pepper
1 clove garlic
1 tsp tomato paste
5 oz stock
3-4 tomatoes
2 tbsp grated cheese
1 tbsp chopped parsley
Slice eggplant and salt lightly.
Slice onion.
Slice tomatoes.
Chop garlic and set aside on a separate plate.
Preheat oven to 350.
In Dutch oven, brown lamb chops quickly in oil & butter. Remove
from pan.
Fry onion until brown. Remove.
Fry eggplant for 5 minutes, turning often.
Return onions to pan. Add garlic, tomato paste, pepper, stock,
and tomatoes.
Bring to the boil. Taste for salt.
Push lamb chops down into mixture to cover.
Sprinkle with cheese.
Put uncovered into oven for 35-40 minutes.
Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
Saturday 11 November 2023
TRUFFLE HUNTING in Croatia
Friday, October 6, 2023
BRYAN'S JOURNAL
The Azamara Quest arrived at the seaside resort town of Opatija, Croatia around 9:00
am. We were looking forward to the excursion we had booked to go hunting for truffles.
After breakfast, we boarded our bus to travel to Karlić tartufi at the village of Palladini
near Buzet, the truffle capital of Croatia.
This family-run farm harvests black and white
truffles in its managed grove of oak trees and hazelnut bushes. The truffle hunters use
trained dogs to sniff out the truffles.
Our “hunt” was brief as many of the older members of our group were reluctant to walk
down among the trees to watch the two dogs search for truffles. The staff served us a
lunch of scrambled eggs with truffles
as well as cured meats and cheeses with truffles.
Local wine was served as well. Naturally, we bought a few truffle-based products from
the farm store. Our tour bus drove us back to the cruise ship through the beautiful
mountains of the Istrian peninsula.
While the truffle excursion did not turn out as
anticipated we did enjoy a sunny afternoon in the Istrian countryside of Croatia.
The evening, we dined at the more formal Discoveries Restaurant on the fifth level. The
hostess kindly placed us by a rear window so that we enjoyed a pleasant view. (She
would continue to do this for the rest of our journey.)
The mixed grill appetizers were quite tasty; the duck breast was outstanding.
The after-dinner entertainment in the Cabaret Lounge was provided by the ship’s
singers and dancers. We tempered our expectations and enjoyed a diverting evening.
Later that night we had tea on the stern deck. Eleanor challenged me to a table-tennis
game and promptly demolished me. I spent a lot of time chasing a ping-pong ball down
a flight of stairs to the deck below, much to the amusement of one of the ship’s staff
who teased us about it every time we walked off the ship.
Wednesday 8 November 2023
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Ljubljana, Slovenia
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2023
We took the excursion
organized by Azamara.
As you ascend the steps, you’ll emerge into a colonnade suffused with light – the light of knowledge, according to the architect’s plans.” (Lonely Planet)
Bryan and I also enjoyed The City Museum which has the “reconstructed street that once linked the eastern gates of the Roman
colony of Emona (today’s Ljubljana) to the Ljubljanica River”. (Lonely Planet)
We did not have time to see The National
Museum of Slovenia which has “a Celtic pail from the late 6th century
BC and a Stone Age bone flute”. Also
Roman glass and jewellery.
We also hoped but did not get to see the view from 16th century Ljubljana Castle.
Presernov Square or Preseren Square is the city’s social center. The statue of Slovenia’s greatest poet was, at first, so shocking that the model who posed for the naked Muse was so disgraced that she emigrated.
Standing at the base of the statue, look right and down the first street to the second floor of the first yellow house. The woman in the picture in the window is the unrequited love of Preseren’s life.
St. Nicholas’s Cathedral (Ljubljana Cathedral) has an “Italian Baroque interior and bronze doors with intricate, symbolic designs” : Rick Steeves
SOME THINGS WE MISSED: I also would have liked to spend a lot of time just strolling along the river promenade and on the bridges designed by Joze Plecnik, shopping at the Riverside Market, and relaxing at sidewalk cafés. Rick Steeves says there are great views from the bridge called Brv.
Also missed:
The Serbian
Orthodox Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius
Tivoli Park
Slovenian
Ethnographic Museum
Contemporary
History Museum: Baroque mansion in
Tivoli Park
The colonnades of the Central Market were designed by Ljubljana’s famous architect, Joze Plecnik.
Museum of
Contemporary Art
Obviously, too much for one day’s sightseeing!
FOR FOOD, I was hoping to find Kranjska klobasa (traditional Carniolan sausage), jota (turnip stew or a bean and cabbage soup), bograc (goulash stew), dodole (roasted dumplings), struklji, Slovenian sweet or savory dumplings), Postrv (trout from the Soca River), zlikrofi (ravioli), and prsut (air-dried ham). But the restaurant our guide took us to served us a very nice wild mushroom soup inside loaves of bread.
For dessert, I looked for emona kocka (layer cake
with nuts and chocolate), potica (a nut roll), and Prekmurska gibanica (poppyseed,
walnut, apple, cheese, and cream layer cake).
FOR WINE:
I looked for peppery red Teran
and Malvazija, a white.
FOR COCKTAIL: Brinjevec:
brandy from juniper
********************
BRYAN'S JOURNAL
We were up early to see the rare meeting just before Koper of all four sister cruise
ships: Azamara Quest, Azamara Pursuit, Azamara Journey, and Azamara Onward. We
were able to see much of their assembly manoeuvres by looking out of our stateroom
window. The ships managed to position their bows inward to resemble a compass. Our
ship hosted an on-deck pancake breakfast in honour of the occasion. After an hour the
ships dispersed with the Quest moving on to dock at the port of Koper in Slovenia.
After breakfast, we took our first excursion, a tour of Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia.
Our shipmates from Wisconsin were on the tour with us.
The bus took 1.25 hours
driving over many beautiful mountains and through two very long tunnels to reach the
city of some 288,000 people.
Our tour guide marched us around the old town centre
beginning at Prešeren Square (with its controversial statue of Slovenia’s greatest poet,
France Prešeren, and a naked woman. Our guide pointed out features such as the
picture of Julija, the unrequited love of Prešeren, placed on the outside of a yellow
house; the late 19 th -century department store, Galerija Emporium; the Riverside Market.
and the carved doors of the 18 th -century Cathedral of St. Nicholas.
We crossed a
number of famous bridges;
Butchers’ Bridge (with its many locks fixed on its rails},The Butcher’s Bridge (Mesarski Most) is a footbridge with glass and granite flooring, also designed by Jose Plecnik.
Cobblers’ Bridge, Dragon Bridge, and the aptly named Triple Bridge, all designed by Jože
Plečnik.
She took us to a local restaurant for lunch
and then for a river boat ride.
We
were given some free time to explore the area so we scurried off to see the sights that
Eleanor had already earmarked: the inside of St. Nicholas’ Cathedral with its Italian
Baroque interior and , the stair way at the University Library (It starts in darkness and
ascends toward the bright light from a high window), and the Roman road at the City
Museum.
We returned to the cruise ship by 4:30 pm. After a short nap and a quick dinner we
walked over to Tito Square to have a glass of sparkling wine (it was served everywhere)
to listen to a very talented Slovenian acapella group. It was a beautiful evening – not too
chilly and no rain. On the way back to the ship we were serenaded with operatic arias
from the ship’s upper decks by the Cruise Director. (She did love to perform.)
Tuesday 7 November 2023
CHIOGGIA, ITALY
Pronounce: Kee- odge- ya
The important thing to know about Chioggia if you are starting a cruise there is that the cruise port is VERY close to the Old Town -- you really can plan to walk there and sightsee in the town and have a nibble or a drink under the red awnings of a restaurant on the main square.
Bryan's journal:
Wednesday, October 4, 2023
We arrived at the ship around 2 pm. Although we were told that we would have to wait
until 4 pm before we could board the ship, we preceded to check in immediately. It went
very smoothly, reminiscent of the old style of doing it. (We had anticipated having to use
a smartphone app or a QR code.)
Our cruise ship, Azamara Quest, is one of four almost identical ships. (The company
only has four.) It is a small ship (less than 600 feet long) which carries a little over 400
staff and less than 700 passengers, mostly affluent well-travelled retirees. It had about
two shops and did not have a casino or an art gallery. It did have a library!
After a couple of complimentary glasses of sparkling wine we proceeded to the ninth
floor for a pleasant lunch in the Windows Café. We saw very few children on the ship so
far, but next to us was a precocious five-year old named Leopold who was with his
parents. His father turned out to be “second in command” of the ship. The young lad
confidentially and openly conversed with us old strangers. He spoke English, German
(his mother’s language) and was learning Croatian (his father’s language). He and his
mother planned to disembark at Dubrovnik where he would return to school
(kindergarten).
As the ship was not leaving port, we decided to explore Chioggia. An official must have
thought we looked a tad frail for he insisted that we use the cruise line’s “Mobile
Disability Shuttle”. We gladly accepted the offer and took the short ride out of the
terminal area.
We walked the narrow streets and crossed a canal to reach the main
street of the old town along which was a fine basilica
as well as other 11 th- to 13 th- century religious buildings.
We began our return to the ship hot and sweaty. Fortunately, we met
the driver of the shuttle who was only too happy bring us back to the terminal.
After a short nap to regain our energy we attended the mandatory passenger safety
demonstration. That called for a drink at one of the ship’s bars while we watched the sail
away from the dock. (It seems that all passengers received a complementary wine-
beer–cocktail package which we used regularly during the voyage. Huzzah!) While out
on the deck we spoke with a Scottish couple who recounted their problems finding
transportation to the cruise ship terminal at Chioggia. They also told us about their
experience on an Azamara ship cruising along the west coast of South America when
the Covid pandemic struck. Ports denied them entry but the ship took everyone back to
Miami and arranged their flights home.
We were off to dinner at the Windows Café where food was served cafeteria-style. We
enjoyed fresh sea food and more wine, and we met a lively group of travelers from
Wisconsin some of whom were of Slovenian heritage.
After dinner at the Cabaret Lounge (which is quite small, but then this is a small ship)
the ship organized a traditional ‘welcome aboard” event. The Captain and his crew were
introduced and the small troupe of performers which included the Cruise Director (it is
not a big ship) were showcased.
Our stateroom (4007) was located on the 4 th level – the lowest level for passengers- in
the forward section of the ship. The room was relatively roomy with a queen-sized bed,
a small couch and oval table, and a large window.
Our room was in a quiet, low-traffic area with easy access to the elevators, to Guest
Services, to the gangway, and the 5 th floor dining area. Our attendant, Gildee, was quite
pleasant and efficient.
Monday 6 November 2023
Balkan Cruise, October 2023
Bryan kept a journal of our trip. Here are his first entries:
The end of September has arrived and Eleanor and I are preparing to leave Comox for
our visit to three Balkan countries on the cruise ship, Azamara Quest. This is the first
time in many years that we have taken a vacation with just the two of us. Initially, we
had invited other family members from both sides as well as an acquaintance of
Eleanor’s to join us but they all declined for various reasons.
We felt fortunate when we booked the trip last year because the cost kept rising as we
approached the day of departure. What we had not anticipated was the final cost (after
some expensive revisions) of the airfare and the last minute complications regarding our
shuttle service from the airport to the cruise ship. There were many e-mails and
telephone calls to Azamara and to our booking agent, Wyatt, at Vacations To Go.
Saturday, September 30
We had booked the 12:45 pm ferry from Duke Point to Tsawwassen to anticipate any
unforeseen delays (eg storms, mechanical problems) and to spend some time with
Nestor and Diana in Surrey.
We were treated to two suppers: at Nestor’s on Saturday
and at Diana’s on Sunday. Eleanor found a good pair of rain boots to take on our trip.
We had expected cool weather and some rain showers during our Balkan sojourn.
Monday, October 20, 2023
The morning began with a drizzly rain. Nevertheless we walked to a local coffee shop
where Nestor treated us to breakfast after which we packed up for our drive to
Vancouver International Airport. We parked our RAV 4 at Value Long Term Parking
(which we had booked in advance). We collected a small green token to be used when
we returned to pick up or vehicle. (It would later become a source of some anxiety.)
We boarded the Sky-train rapid transit at nearby Templeton station (The Ticket to the
airport is free.) to take the 8 minute ride to the airport.
We proceeded to the Lufthansa check-in in the international departures area. Already
there was a line-up
but we eventually were able to check in our luggage and to obtain our
boarding passes. (We were able to sit together but we could not obtain an aisle seat.)
We boarded a Boeing 747-400
and took off a bit later than our 4:25 pm departure for a
10-hour flight to Frankfurt International Airport. The plane was full; there were very few
children on board. We were stuck between two burly chaps. Lufthansa provided a
supper in the evening and a breakfast next morning. Long-distance flying is no fun for
old folks like us.
Tuesday, October 3, 2023
We arrived in Frankfurt at 11:40 am and had a few hours to locate the gate for the final
leg of our journey to Marco Polo Airport, the international airport situated some 8 Km
north of Venice.
We were supposed to lift off at 4:25 pm but again there was a delay
and, after a 1.5 hour flight on an Airbus 320 we arrived close to 6 pm. With the shifting
time zones our biological clocks were becoming a bit confused.
We hailed a taxi which took us to the Titian Inn (Best Western) in Tessera about ten
minutes away for 20 Euros.
So far there was no rain. In fact it was quite warm and humid.
After settling in to our hotel room, we walked down to the Bar La Sosta
where we sat at an outdoor table and ordered pasta dinners.
The busy local restaurant was run by an Italian-speaking Asian family. While we were there we met an older couple who hailed from Aberystwyth, Wales. They seemed to be avid travellers and we were comfortable enough to share our experiences.
Although our room was fine, we both spent a restless night still trying to adjust to the
time change.
Wednesday, October 4, 2023
We woke up early to gray skies but there was no rain. We walked up the road to a small
bakery, Pancaffé da Ely, to have a coffee and a croissant.
This establishment serves
mostly local workers especially shuttle drivers. The staff were quite friendly. [Eleanor
had forgotten her water bottle at the bakery. When Bryan went back the staff had kept it
for her.]
We had a problem with Azamara regarding our transfer to the cruise ship which was
located in Chioggia about 51 Km from Venice. [Venice no longer allows cruise ships to
dock there.] They would not allow us to pick up a shuttle from the airport. Instead, we
had to first go to the rail station on Tronchetto, an artificial island in the Venetian lagoon
where tourists park their vehicles which are not allowed in the city.
This morning we met an elderly woman at the hotel who was confused as to where she
should go to take a shuttle to the ship. In the end she opted for the airport (because she
had vouchers to do so) and did mange to reach the ship.
We, on the other hand, were forced to take a more circuitous and expensive route to the
ship.
Our shuttle driver who was to take us to Tronchetto asked to pick us up earlier than
planned because a serious accident in Mestre might very well tie up traffic. [It was a
serious accident. A bus carrying foreign tourists toppled off an overpass on to train
tracks below. Severed electric power lines ignited fuel from the bus’ ruptured tanks
killing 21 people including 3 children.] We did arrive at Tronchetto but there was no train
station which was located some distance away (we had envisioned eating a leisurely
breakfast in the station) and no sign of a bus to take us to the cruise ship. After
wandering about looking anxious and lost (we met an Asian group in a similar
quandary), some kind official took pity on us and directed us to the Azamara
representatives who happened to be in another parking lot on the other side of some
kiosks selling tourist merchandize. After much waiting (thank goodness it was cloudy
but not raining) we boarded a bus for the one hour journey to the cruise ship terminal at
Chioggia. On our way, we did pass the scene of that accident.
Next time: Lots more Bryan wrote on the Azamara Quest
Wednesday, October 4 |
5:00pm |
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Thursday, October 5 |
8:00am |
10:30pm |
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Friday, October 6 |
9:00am |
6:00pm |
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Saturday, October 7 |
8:00am |
8:00pm |
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Sunday, October 8 |
8:00am |
9:00pm |
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Monday, October 9 |
8:00am |
10:00pm |
|
Tuesday, October 10 |
9:30am |
6:00pm |
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Wednesday, October 11 |
8:00am |
3:00pm |
|
Thursday, October 12 |
7:00am |